Baby Doll: High Chair

Ana White has posted her baby doll high chair tutorial on her blog! Yippee!  Just in time for Christmas...

You can find the tutorial here:

http://ana-white.com/2010/12/how-to-build-a-doll-high-chair-tutorial.html

This looks simple.....I bet someone out there "needs" this and can have it built by Christmas.....

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

Mattress, Pillow & Sheets Tutorial

I wanted to re-post a tutorial on making mattresses and pillows (for doll beds and cribs).  This technique can be used for any craft....here is the formula I follow:

MATTRESS

Measure your "bed" length and width EXACTLY.

Add 1" to length measurement (for 1/2" seam allowance on each side).

Add 1" to width measurement (for 1/2" seam allowance on each side).

Determine "height" you want your mattress to be.

Add 1" to height measurement (for 1/2" seam allowance on each side).

YOU WILL NEED:

2 PIECES CUT @ length x width measurement = top and bottom of mattress

2 PIECES CUT @ length x height measurement = long sides of mattress

2 PIECES CUT @ width x height measurement = short sides (ends) of mattress

(I used striped cotton pillow ticking fabric.)

10 small buttons

neutral color thread

hand sewing needle

scissors

sewing machine

pins

fiber fill for stuffing

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CHEAT SHEET

(These are measurements already done for you for the following items:)

For My Doll Bed:             http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/search/label/bed

                                     2 @ 22" long x 13.5" wide (top & bottom)

                                     2 @ 22" long x 2.5" high (long sides)

                                     2 @ 13.5 long x 2.5" high (short ends)

For My Baby Doll Crib:     http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/search/label/crib

                                     2 @ 24.5" long x 13.25" wide (top & bottom)

                                     2 @ 24.5" long x 3.5" high (long sides)

                                     2 @ 13.25" long x 3.5" high (short ends)

For Ana's Farmhouse Doll Bed: ( http://ana-white.com/2010/11/another-farmhouse-bed.html )                     
                                    2 @ 20" long x 15" wide (top & bottom)

                                    2 @ 20" long x 2" high (long sides)

                                    2 @ 15" long x 2" high (short ends)

MATTRESS DIRECTIONS:

1.    Pin and sew all pieces right-sides-together, forming a pillow case, and leaving one "short end" OPEN for turning. 

2.    Turn right side out. 

3.    Stuff with fiberfill. 

4.    PIN and sew short end closed.

5.    Tucks in mattress were made by sewing a button on one side, THROUGH thickness of mattress, catching another button on the other side. Sew back and forth, pulling taut, until buttons are secure, and tie off. Place one in center, and two more off-center at either end for a total of 5 tucks (10 buttons).

PILLOW

For the pillow you will need two pieces of fabric measuring 9" x 6.75".

PILLOW DIRECTIONS:

1.    Place right sides together, and pin around 3 sides, leaving one short side open for turning. Sew.

2.    Turn right sides out. 

3.    Stuff with fiberfill. 

4.    Tuck in fabric on end to create a "hem" and pin.  Sew open end closed.

***********************

SHEETS

These directions will help you to sew a fitted sheet and a flat sheet for your mattress, and a pillowcase for your pillow.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

CHEAT SHEET

For My Doll Bed:

Fitted Sheet:  cut 1 @ 23"wide x 33"long

Flat Sheet: cut 1 @ 23"wide x 33"long

Pillowcase:  cut 1 @ 14"wide x 10" long

For My Baby Doll Crib:

Fitted Sheet:  cut 1 @ 24"wide x 34"long

Pillowcase:  cut 1 @ 14"wide x 10" long

For Ana's Farmhouse Doll Bed:

Fitted Sheet:  cut 1 @ 21"wide x 27"long

Flat Sheet:  cut 1 @ 21"wide x 27"long

Pillowcase:  cut 2 @ 14"wide x 10" long **

**Ana's Doll bed can fit 2 pillows if you want to make 2!

SHEETS DIRECTIONS:

1.    Cut out all necessary pieces from your desired fabric (I used muslin).

2.    Hem all the way around the flat sheet and fitted sheets ONCE:

 3.    Then....FOLD that first hem in and HEM the flat sheet and fitted sheets AGAIN:

4.    You will now have a fitted sheet and a flat sheet that have nicely hemmed edges to prevent fraying:

5.    At this point....your FLAT SHEET is DONE!

6.    Now place your hemmed FITTED sheet FLAT on the floor, RIGHT SIDE UP.

7.    Lay your mattress down on top of the FITTED sheet, making sure that the top of your mattress is laying FACE DOWN.

8.    Center the mattress on your sheet, making sure that you have even edges sticking out all around.  (The ends will be "longer" than the sides....that's fine.)

9.    Bring up the center of each edge and pin it to the pillow....this will keep the sheet from shifting around on you while you work.

10.    Gather the sheet at each corner and pin snugly:

11.    After making sure to pin all four corners, CAREFULLY remove the sheet from the mattress.  Sew along the pin lines until you have created a "pocket" like this:

 12.    After sewing all four corners, turn right side out and try it onto your mattress.  It should fit snugly:

13.    If everything fits well, remove sheet from mattress and turn wrong side out again.  Trim the "pockets" away at the four corners:

 14.    Now turn fitted sheet right side out and place back on mattress.  Your FITTED SHEET is now DONE!

PILLOWCASE DIRECTIONS:


1.    Cut out your 10" x 14" piece of fabric.

2.    HEM along one 14" long edge.  Turn in and HEM AGAIN to create pillowcase edge:

3.    Turn in pillowcase on long edge, making sure right sides of fabric are together.  Your pillowcase should now measure 7"x10".  Pin along raw edges, leaving hemmed end open.  Sew along two raw edges:

4.    Turn right side out.  PILLOWCASE is now DONE!

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

Baby Doll: Crib

DISCLAIMER: I just want to state the OBVIOUS....this crib is NOT INTENDED, in any way, to be used for the care of a HUMAN child!!!! Please don't put a baby or child into this crib!  It is only intended to be used as a TOY for children to PLAY WITH!!! 

The Baby Doll Crib is finally built, just not "finished"!  In my effort to get this plan out to you before Christmas, I have simply built it and not filled holes, sanded, or finished the crib.  Please excuse the mess!

SHOPPING LIST: (You may have some of these pieces on-hand as SCRAP)

2x2:    4 - 18" long (legs)

1x2:    4 - 24" long (long side rails of crib - top and bottom)

1x2:    4 - 10 5/8" long (ends of crib - top and bottom)

MDF:  2 pieces @ 9"x12" (vertical ends of crib)

MDF:  1 piece @ 12"x24" (bottom of crib)

1x2:    4 - 12" long (screwed under 12"x24" MDF for support)

5/16 dowel:  14 pieces at 8" long (side rails of crib - Home Depot has them in 4 foot lengths - buy 3)

3/8" drill bit

t-square level

tape measure

2" wood screws

countersink bit for the screws

1" nails (toenail on the vertical end pieces of MDF)

wood putty to fill holes and knots

Paint or stain to finish your piece

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.    Mark your sizes on your wood and cut out your pieces.  (I always mark the wood with sizes AND where it is to be used (leg, side) so that I can move faster when building.

2.    Sand your pieces (on the ends to be joined, at least, if not completely).  You don't want to deal with edges that won't join cleanly and snugly.

3.    Using a flat piece of board at one end, line up your 4 pieces of 1x2x24" rails so that they are all flush:

4.     Lay a tape measure on one of the boards, measuring from one end to the other the full 24", and make a small mark every three inches (3", 6", 9", 12", 15", 18", & 21").  These will be the placements of your 7 dowels per side rail (my daughter is helping with her OWN play tools....I wonder WHY this takes me SO LONG???):

 5.    While all of the pieces are lined up flush, use a t-square level to mark lines through your measured spacing marks:

6.    Here they are, all lined up and marked:

7.    Get out your 3/8" drill bit.  Making sure to drill in the CENTER of each mark, drill out a hole for each dowel....SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY, making sure to keep the drill bit VERTICAL to the board so you get straight holes.  (This is the tedious part - you will drill a hole 28 times!  But if you go slowly, your efforts will be worth it!):

8.    Pre-drill one of the 1x2x24" rails with a countersink bit in the top right corner of the rail (making sure the dowel holes are pointed toward you):

9.    Attach the 1x2x12" support (making sure that the support is laying "down flat" when drilling) to the 1x2x24" rail.  Repeat pre-drill on opposite top left corner of the 24" rail, and attach another 12" support (laying "down flat").  You should now have a U-shaped frame that looks like this (dowel holes facing UP):

10.    Now just attach another 24" rail to the other side of the frame, using the pre-drilling step with a countersink bit, and you should have a frame that looks like this (BOTH rails with dowel holes facing UP):

11.    Now lay your 12"x24" piece of MDF onto this frame (the support pieces laying DOWN FLAT help form a little "tray" for the MDF to sit onto).  You may have to sand down any tight edges of MDF to get it to fit:

12.    Now for the 2x2 legs:  Pre-drill through the TOP LEFT of one 2x2 leg, and the TOP RIGHT of a second 2x2 leg (you will repeat this step again for the "other side" of the crib for a total of 2 frames like this).  Screw on a 1x2x24" rail at the top of the legs (dowel holes on rail pointing down from the top of the legs) so that you have a frame that looks like this:

13.    Repeat last step so that you have 2 leg frame pieces that look alike.

14.    Now we join the bottom frame with the 2 leg frames:  the easiest way I found was to turn one leg frame upside-down (legs sticking into the air, 1x2x24" rail FLUSH SIDE out), arrange dowels into holes, then turn the bottom frame upside-down and line dowels up into that bottom 24" rail.  Screw the bottom 24" rail into the 2x2 legs, one at a time, and then turn right side up.  It should look something like this:

15.    Next:  repeat the last step for the other side of the crib, as pictured below:

16.    Now attach last two 1x2x12" supports under the crib, using a countersink bit and screwing them into the 24" rails with 2" wood screws:

17.    You will find the crib will "wobble" A LOT... SO

18.    Using your countersink bit, screw on a piece of 1x2x10 5/8" end piece between the 2x2 legs.  Make sure that the 1x2 is flat (as pictured):

19.    Now place your 9"x12" MDF end pieces inside the crib, flush with the 2x2 legs.  Toenail these pieces into the 2x2 legs and top 1x2x10" piece using 1" nails and a nail gun:

20.    Last: nail the last 2 pieces of 1x2x10 5/8" pieces onto the sides of the crib between the 2x2 legs and level with the top of the bottom end supports:

21.  Fill all nail holes and knots in wood with wood putty.

22.  Sand piece well.

23.  Finish as desired with paint or stain.

(I have not filled my nail/screw holes or painted this piece yet....in an effort to get the plans out to you so that you may build this in time for Christmas!  Please forgive the lack of "finish"!)

Here is a picture of the crib next to the changing table that we previously built:

These two pieces are pre-school kid-sized (my daughter is almost 3, but the size of a 5 year old) 

and they fit her well.  

Here is the crib with the mattress and pillow from my tutorial :

http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/2010/12/mattress-pillow-sheets-tutorial.html

(The doll measures approximately 13", so this crib can be used for even larger dolls!)

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

Baby Doll: Diapers, Blanket, Changing Pad

I made two sets of each (Purple Polka Dot & Pink Floral):
2 Diapers
Blanket
Changing Pad

These are for 2 toddler girls for Christmas.  I got the diaper pattern here: http://servingpinklemonade.blogspot.com/2010/01/baby-diapers.html

The Blanket and Changing Pad "patterns" I just "winged".

I simply cut the items out from two old flannel baby receiving blankets that by daughter no longer uses, so these gifts were virtually FREE!!!

I added velcro to the diapers for ease of use.  ALL of the items were sewn "pillow-case style" placing 2 pieces of fabric right-sides together, sewing around, then turning right-side out and top-stitching around all edges to finish.

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

Baby Doll Changing Table OR Bunk Bed for 18" Dolls

So.....we needed a baby doll changing table.  I think this is the best plan I could come up with, because it also doubles as a BUNK BED for your 18" dolls!!!!!

SHOPPING LIST: (You may have some of these pieces on-hand as SCRAP)

2x2:    4 - 18" long (legs)

1x4:    2 - 24" long (top sides of "tray")

1x4:    2 - 10.25" long (top ends of "tray")

1x2:    2 - 24" long (sides of bottom "shelf")

1x2:    2 - 10.25" long (ends of bottom "shelf")

MDF:  2 - 12"wide x 24"long (top "tray" bottom and bottom "shelf")

12 - 2" wood screws

countersink bit for the screws

2" nails (nail gun)

1" nails (nail gun) - for tacking on the bottom MDF shelf

wood putty to fill holes and knots

Paint or stain to finish your piece

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.    Mark your sizes on your wood and cut out your pieces.  (I always mark the wood with sizes AND where it is to be used (leg, side) so that I can move faster when building.

2.    Sand your pieces (on the ends to be joined, at least, if not completely).  You don't want to deal with edges that won't join cleanly and snugly.

3.    Pre-drill 2 holes in the TOP of each 2x2 leg, with 2 legs having the "holes" toward the left side (as pictured) and 2 legs having the "holes" toward the right side.  This allows the legs to be mounted flush against the 1x4x24" side rails.  (The 2x2 is pictured being pre-drilled, and the 1x4 is positioned vertically underneath it for "measuring".  Thanks to my husband for doing this for me - his hands are bigger!)

Your 2x2 holes should look like this:

(these are the holes that are pre-drilled toward the right side....)

(this picture shows the holes oriented to the left for left side and to the right for the right side:)

4.    After pre-drilling the 2x2's, screw them into the 1x4x24" side rails:

(Yes, this picture is of a later step, but I wanted you to see the side profile of 2x2's and side rail:)

5.    You should now have a "pair" of side rails, one set for each side.

6.    Next, nail your 1x4x10.25" ends between the pairs of side rails to complete the "tray".  You will be using 2" nails to nail from inside the tray, through the 1x4x10.25" into the 2x2 legs.  Nail 4-5 times, spacing as you go along.

(Once again, picture is of a later step...)

7.    You should now have a "tray" on legs!

8.    Turn the piece upside-down, so that it is resting on its tray top.  Place one of the MDF 12x24 pieces between the legs, center it so that it is flush on the side and end rails, and nail down into the 1x4 rails using 1" nails every 2 inches.  (You may use screws instead of nails for added stability.)  

9.    Now turn the piece on its side.  You need to mark each 2x2 leg (on the inside) at 2" from the bottom of the 2x2 leg.  This is so that the 1x2 side rails will have a line you can use to keep them square as you build.  Position the 1x2x24" between the 2x2 legs, and square with the line on each leg (the line is positioned at the bottom of the 1x2, to give you a 2" clearance underneath the piece.)

10.    Pre-drill the hole, and then drill through the 2x2 leg into the 1x2x24" rail, making sure to keep the rail square to the line you marked on the inside of the leg.  (This picture is looking DOWN onto the leg after it was drilled.)  Do this step to both sides of the piece.

11.    Now nail on the short 1x2x10.25" ends.  Nail down (as pictured) through the 1x2 into the 2x2 legs.  Do this step for each end of piece.

12.    Turn your piece right-side-up.  It should now look like this:

13.    Last, place the other piece of 12x24 MDF on top of the bottom shelf.  Make sure edges are flush with the sides and ends of the 1x2's, and then nail or screw through the MDF into the 1x2's, spacing about 2" apart.

14.  Fill all nail holes and knots in wood with wood putty.

15.  Sand piece well.

16.  Finish as desired with paint or stain.

(I have not filled my nail/screw holes or painted this piece yet....in an effort to get the plans out to you so that you may build this in time for Christmas!  Please forgive the lack of "finish"!)

17.  So this can be a changing table for your child's baby doll:

And when they outgrow baby dolls...it can easily be converted to a bunk bed for their 18" dolls:

You simply need to add a "mattress" to the top for a baby changing table, and another mattress to the bottom for a bunk bed!  ****Instructions to make mattresses and pillows are located in my doll bed posting....please adjust the sizes according to the width and length of the piece here.  Or, you could just shove a pillow into the top like I did for the photo shoot! :)

You can see the bunk bed as built by reader's here:

http://domesticdeadline.blogspot.com/search/label/Doll%20Bunk%20Bed

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.