18 inch Doll: Sewing Table

 

SHOPPING LIST:

1 -  Wooden Box (with drawer) (I purchased mine from Hobby Lobby #745984, $5.99)

     ***It is actually something they call a "doll dresser" and the mirror on top was removed.

     ***I have seen a similar wood box at Joann's: #602129648264, $2.99

4 - 7" Wood spindles for legs (or dowels of your choice) 

     ***I used 8.5" spindles and cut off 1.5", purchased here: http://www.caseyswood.com/shoppingcart/zen-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=47&products_id=397

1 - 1/8" thick round plywood circle @ approx. 1-7/8"x4-1/8" (drawer insert) & small scrap (for bag) 

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/6-1/2-plywood-circle-607127/?OrderItemId=13047511

2 - 1/4" square wood dowel cut @ 3.5" (drawer face panel) 

2 - 1/4" square wood dowel cut @ 4" (bag frame)

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/1/4-x-36-hardwood-square-dowel-485243/?OrderItemId=13047437

1 - 5" section of ribbon (drawer insert "pull")

muslin (bag interior lining) (see instructions for measurements)
Fabric of your choice (exterior bag fabric - I used silk) (see instructions for measurements)

flat blade screwdriver OR putty knife (for prying the dresser top loose)

T-square

measuring tape

pencil

Drill (for drilling out holes for spindles) ***or you may glue and clamp, but it's not as stable

wood glue

wood clamps

saw

X-acto knife or razor blade (for cutting through drawer bottom and plywood drawer insert)

sand paper

wood putty (if you need to fill any holes)

hot glue gun (drawer insert "pull")

paint or stain to finish 

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.  Cut out all of your pieces as described and sand them smooth.

2.  If you are using the "doll dresser" from Hobby Lobby, you will need to gently pry off the mirror portion of the dresser using a flat blade screw driver or putty knife. BE CAREFUL.

3.  Remove the drawer from the box, and turn the box UPSIDE DOWN:

4.  GENTLY pry the "top" of the box off (side facing you) using your flat blade screwdriver or putty knife. BE CAREFUL. (I cracked mine because I was going too fast, so I will glue it later in the instructions.)

5.  With the top removed and set aside, turn your drawer UPSIDE DOWN, and line up in front of the box. You will want to mark with a pencil and square just inside the drawer opening, and then transfer those markings over to the box. (Example: my drawer opening measures 1-3/8"x3-3/8".)

6.  Once both pieces are marked, use a saw and X-acto knife to carefully cut away the bottom of the box and the drawer.

7.  On the piece you cut away from the box bottom, gently snap off the front scroll moulding, as shown:

8.  You may discard the box bottom piece, but save the scroll-work piece for a future step.

9.  Your pieces should now look like this:

10.  Gather your pieces together. You should have your box, drawer, scroll-work piece, 4 legs (not shown), drawer insert (not shown) and flat top. You may want to go ahead and stain ALL of your pieces now.

11.  If your box top doesn't crack like mine (***), glue and clamp the box top to the top of your box now. (I actually turned mine over....notice that the bevel edge on the box top was glued on the box upside down in the first picture!)

***Since I cracked my box top, I made sure to use wood glue (wipe off excess!) and clamped until dry. I then sanded well to remove any trace of the previous crack. 

12.  To create the "apron-front" on your drawer, take your 2 pieces of 3.5" long (1/4") dowel and glue together, and then glue to scroll piece and drawer BOTTOM front edge. You will need to clamp them together for good adhesion, wipe off excess glue, let dry well, and then sand any raised edges.

13.  If you are using SPINDLES or ROUND DOWELS for legs, you will need to flip your box over and drill 4 holes for your legs to fit into. I did not glue in my legs because they are snug in the holes. (If you are using SQUARE dowels, you can use wood glue and clamps to attach your dowels into the 4 corners of the box. Let dry and remove clamps.) Add whichever type of legs you choose.

14. BAG: Begin by sewing your muslin liner first so that you get idea of size and construction. Cut out 2 pieces @ 4.25"x5" (front / back), 2 pieces @ 2.5"x5" (sides) and 1 piece @ 1.5"x3.25" (bottom). You will be using 1/2" seams.

15.  Pin your bag right sides together, and then sew along seams leaving raw edges at top. 

16.  Try your bag in the hole of your drawer. Does it fit? (If not, adjust your seams and try fitting again.) Once your bag fits, you can use the above fabric measurements to cut out your OUTSIDE bag. The bags should now look like this: One muslin liner (inside out) and one outside "nice" bag. 

 

17.  Place a small piece of your 1/8" plywood (scrap) in the bottom of your "nice" bag for stiffness and support:

18.  Insert your muslin bag (still turned right side IN) INTO your "nice" outside bag. (You should NOT see ANY seams inside the bags now...the seams should be facing each other between the 2 bags.) Turn down a small seam on each bag toward the inside and pin in place.

19.  Sew around the top of the bag seam where you pinned to secure lining to outside of the bag.

20.  Take your 2 pieces of 4" long 1/4" dowel and hot glue to either side of the bag:

21.  Gently place bag into the drawer, running the bag through the hole and pulling out at the bottom. Allow the 1/4" dowels to act as a "frame" to hold the bag inside the drawer. (Adding a few scraps of fabric to the inside of the bag will help it to fill out nicely!)

22.  Take your drawer insert (you should have already cut this out from your 1/8" plywood circle):

23.   Cut a 5" piece of the ribbon of your choice:

24.  Loop your ribbon, and then hot glue the ribbon ENDS to the BOTTOM of your drawer insert: 

25.  Place your insert into the bottom of your drawer! You can use the ribbon "pull" to remove the drawer insert to access the bag. 

You are now finished and READY FOR PLAY!!!!

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

Reader Build

Remember our Campfire?

http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/search/label/campfire

One of our readers has built her own!!!

It looks FANTASTIC!

Check it out here:

http://knitwitmommy.blogspot.com/2012/10/perfectly-lovely-weekend.html#comment-form

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

18 inch Doll: Kitchen Part 1 Sink / Dishwasher

KITCHEN: PART 1

SINK / DISHWASHER

These items are created in 1/3 scale.

Keep in mind that American Girl dolls

 are supposed to be 8-12 years old,

so they are not BIGGER than their appliances!

The "mom" doll pictured is a My Twinn doll,

and measures 23" tall. She is also 1/3 scale.

This is Part 1.

Part 2: Kitchen: Fridge can be found here:
http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/2013/03/18-inch-doll-kitchen-part-2-refrigerator.html
Part 3: Kitchen: Stove
http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/2013/03/18-inch-doll-kitchen-part-3-stove.html
This is meant to be a "simple" kitchen that can be adapted to many different styles of doll play. By simply changing some of the finishes, you can have a completely DIFFERENT look!!

SHOPPING LIST:

1 - 1x8 @ 30" (countertop)

1 - 1x3 @ 30" (backsplash)
1 - 1x8 @ 27" (bottom shelf)
1 - 1x2 @ 27" (toe kick)

2 - 1x8 @ 11.5" (left and right VERTICAL sides of kitchen cabinets)

1 - 1x8 @ 9.25" (center VERTICAL cabinet panel - makes divider between cabinet and dishwasher)

1 - 1x3 @ 16" (horizontal cabinet stile - under the countertop)

1 - 1x2 @ 6.75" (vertical cabinet divider - between doors)
4 - 1x2 @ 6.75" (runners for "baskets" inside of dishwasher)

1 - 1/4" MDF @ 9.75"x 28" (cabinet backing)
2 - 1/4" MDF @ ROUGHLY 7"x7" (cabinet doors - these will be cut to your measurements of your  cabinet opening)
1 - 1/4" MDF @ 9.75" x 9.25" (dishwasher door)
1 - robe hook (faucet) ***Everbilt Large Single Robe Hook #486151, Home Depot
2 - wire organizer baskets (dishwasher baskets) ***These were from the 99cent store, but you can use any metal / plastic basket which measures 9"x 6"x 2".
2 - knobs (for faucet knobs) ***anything of your choice will work here!
2 - 3/4" wooden furniture buttons (cabinet knobs) ***Wood Shoppe item#165282 Hobby Lobby, or use something else you would like.
3 - pairs hinges (cabinet and dishwasher) ***Everbilt Narrow Utility Hinges 1", Home Depot
1 - cabinet pull (dishwasher handle) ***Liberty 3" Pull, Home Depot

1 - 6" square (2" deep) baking pan - (sink) ***Wilton #7089605180, Michael's. You can use another type. Try to keep it around 5-6 inches. If it is too small, it won't look right or be usable for "play". If it is too large, it will not fit into the allowable space in the countertop.

T-square

measuring tape

pencil

Drill / countersink bit
1" circle bit (for drilling out sink hole)
Jigsaw (to cut hole for sink) 

2" screws
Nail gun / nails (for MDF backing)

wood glue

wood clamps

saw

sand paper

wood putty

painter's tape

paint or stain to finish (I used yellow latex paint for the cabinet and back, gray latex paint for the dishwasher interior and door, and "stone look" spray paint for the countertop.)

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.  Cut out all of your pieces as described (except for 2 cabinet doors) and sand them smooth.

2.  Center your horizontal cabinet stile to your vertical cabinet divider, and then attach using 2" screws and a counter sink bit.  This will form a "T". (Ignore that these are 2 white pieces of wood....I was trying to show how to screw together.)

 3.  Now attach your LEFT 1x8 cabinet side to your "T" using 2 - 2" screws. (The left "side" is pictured at the top.)

4.  Attach your "center" 9.25" 1x8 cabinet piece to the opposite TOP end of your "T" using 2" screws. 

5.  Now turn the "T" face down onto a level surface (left side pictured at left), and attach your bottom 27" 1x8 to the bottom of the "T".

 6.  Attach the left side to the bottom cabinet board, and then attach the bottom cabinet board (it is longer than where the center panel will meet it!) up INTO your center cabinet panel.  Your kitchen should now look like this (minus the child helping....unless you have one of those, too):

**Notice above that the bottom cabinet shelf is LONGER than the cabinet to allow for the dishwasher. 

It is also sitting on top of the piece which was cut for the countertop....that's why it looks "doubled".

7.  Attach your backsplash to your countertop.  Place the backsplash BEHIND the countertop (not on top), and drill through the backsplash into the back of the countertop.

8.  Attach your right cabinet side to the end of your kitchen using 2" screws.

9.  Attach your countertop to your kitchen cabinet, making sure to center the overlap on the ends of the countertop.  You should have about 1" space on either side.  Your kitchen should now look like this:

 10.  Now place your sink onto the countertop where you would like for it to sit.  Draw around it, making a mark onto the countertop.  Make sure that it is centered front to back and side to side, and will not interfere with any wood structures below it.  You can now drill holes into each corner, and then cut on your "lines" with your jigsaw.

 11.  Test your sink to see if it fits. You may have to sand / file the opening if it is tight.  (Remove your sink after testing...you will replace it at the end of the project.)

 12.  Glue and clamp your 1x2 runners into your dishwasher cabinet.  Runners are placed ALL THE WAY to the back of the cabinet, flush with where the MDF backing will sit, to allow for the dishwasher door to be INSET WHEN CLOSED.  The bottom runners are set 1" from the bottom of the dishwasher to the bottom of the 1x2.  The top runners are set 2" from the top of the dishwasher to the top of the 1x2.  Wipe up any glue that has squeezed out. Let dry overnight.

 13.  When dry, remove clamps.

 14.  Add baskets temporarily to measure for accuracy.

 15.  Your kitchen should now look like this:

16.  Add wood putty to all holes. Allow to dry overnight. Sand entire kitchen well, and remove sawdust.

17.  If you are using a "stone-look" spray paint for your countertop, tape off your cabinet so that only the countertop is showing:

18. Spray the top (several coats will be needed), and allow each to dry for several hours.  Once satisfied with color and countertop is dry, remove tape.

19.  Attach your MDF backing to the back of your kitchen using nails and a nail gun.

20.  Paint the remaining wood surfaces (including interior and MDF backing) in colors of your choice. Allow to dry well between coats. Some light sanding between coats may be necessary. You may also choose to add a final clear coat varnish to your piece to protect the finish.

21.  Paint your dishwasher door as desired, and allow to dry well. Attach your knob to your dishwasher door, and then attach the door to the kitchen.  Add your dishwasher baskets. ***Optional: you may add a magnetic door catch (Home Depot) to the inside of your dishwasher if you want extra help keeping the door closed.

22.  Measure your cabinet door openings. Cut out your cabinet doors (MDF).  Paint with cabinet door color of choice, and allow to dry well. Attach doors to the kitchen with hinges.  Add knobs to each door (I recommend screwing and not just gluing). I recommend adding a tiny screw inside each cabinet opening on the top or bottom corner (by the knob) to keep the doors from swinging inward during play. ***If your doors are tight and hard to open, trying rubbing a wax candle on the cabinet door edges! 

23.  Add in your "sink".  MAKE SURE TO DO THAT BEFORE YOU ADD YOUR FAUCET!!!  Attach your faucet and knobs to the backsplash, centering them over your sink and drilling through the back of the backsplash.

24.  You are now finished and READY FOR PLAY!!!!

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.