Pretend Play: Jedi Robe Costume

A request was made for a Jedi Robe....

I found this Simplicity pattern (#5840):

I was pretty easy to sew, and came out REALLY cute!  

REQUEST:  fulfilled 

Baby Doll: High Chair

Ana White has posted her baby doll high chair tutorial on her blog! Yippee!  Just in time for Christmas...

You can find the tutorial here:

http://ana-white.com/2010/12/how-to-build-a-doll-high-chair-tutorial.html

This looks simple.....I bet someone out there "needs" this and can have it built by Christmas.....

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

Mattress, Pillow & Sheets Tutorial

I wanted to re-post a tutorial on making mattresses and pillows (for doll beds and cribs).  This technique can be used for any craft....here is the formula I follow:

MATTRESS

Measure your "bed" length and width EXACTLY.

Add 1" to length measurement (for 1/2" seam allowance on each side).

Add 1" to width measurement (for 1/2" seam allowance on each side).

Determine "height" you want your mattress to be.

Add 1" to height measurement (for 1/2" seam allowance on each side).

YOU WILL NEED:

2 PIECES CUT @ length x width measurement = top and bottom of mattress

2 PIECES CUT @ length x height measurement = long sides of mattress

2 PIECES CUT @ width x height measurement = short sides (ends) of mattress

(I used striped cotton pillow ticking fabric.)

10 small buttons

neutral color thread

hand sewing needle

scissors

sewing machine

pins

fiber fill for stuffing

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
CHEAT SHEET

(These are measurements already done for you for the following items:)

For My Doll Bed:             http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/search/label/bed

                                     2 @ 22" long x 13.5" wide (top & bottom)

                                     2 @ 22" long x 2.5" high (long sides)

                                     2 @ 13.5 long x 2.5" high (short ends)

For My Baby Doll Crib:     http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/search/label/crib

                                     2 @ 24.5" long x 13.25" wide (top & bottom)

                                     2 @ 24.5" long x 3.5" high (long sides)

                                     2 @ 13.25" long x 3.5" high (short ends)

For Ana's Farmhouse Doll Bed: ( http://ana-white.com/2010/11/another-farmhouse-bed.html )                     
                                    2 @ 20" long x 15" wide (top & bottom)

                                    2 @ 20" long x 2" high (long sides)

                                    2 @ 15" long x 2" high (short ends)

MATTRESS DIRECTIONS:

1.    Pin and sew all pieces right-sides-together, forming a pillow case, and leaving one "short end" OPEN for turning. 

2.    Turn right side out. 

3.    Stuff with fiberfill. 

4.    PIN and sew short end closed.

5.    Tucks in mattress were made by sewing a button on one side, THROUGH thickness of mattress, catching another button on the other side. Sew back and forth, pulling taut, until buttons are secure, and tie off. Place one in center, and two more off-center at either end for a total of 5 tucks (10 buttons).

PILLOW

For the pillow you will need two pieces of fabric measuring 9" x 6.75".

PILLOW DIRECTIONS:

1.    Place right sides together, and pin around 3 sides, leaving one short side open for turning. Sew.

2.    Turn right sides out. 

3.    Stuff with fiberfill. 

4.    Tuck in fabric on end to create a "hem" and pin.  Sew open end closed.

***********************

SHEETS

These directions will help you to sew a fitted sheet and a flat sheet for your mattress, and a pillowcase for your pillow.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

CHEAT SHEET

For My Doll Bed:

Fitted Sheet:  cut 1 @ 23"wide x 33"long

Flat Sheet: cut 1 @ 23"wide x 33"long

Pillowcase:  cut 1 @ 14"wide x 10" long

For My Baby Doll Crib:

Fitted Sheet:  cut 1 @ 24"wide x 34"long

Pillowcase:  cut 1 @ 14"wide x 10" long

For Ana's Farmhouse Doll Bed:

Fitted Sheet:  cut 1 @ 21"wide x 27"long

Flat Sheet:  cut 1 @ 21"wide x 27"long

Pillowcase:  cut 2 @ 14"wide x 10" long **

**Ana's Doll bed can fit 2 pillows if you want to make 2!

SHEETS DIRECTIONS:

1.    Cut out all necessary pieces from your desired fabric (I used muslin).

2.    Hem all the way around the flat sheet and fitted sheets ONCE:

 3.    Then....FOLD that first hem in and HEM the flat sheet and fitted sheets AGAIN:

4.    You will now have a fitted sheet and a flat sheet that have nicely hemmed edges to prevent fraying:

5.    At this point....your FLAT SHEET is DONE!

6.    Now place your hemmed FITTED sheet FLAT on the floor, RIGHT SIDE UP.

7.    Lay your mattress down on top of the FITTED sheet, making sure that the top of your mattress is laying FACE DOWN.

8.    Center the mattress on your sheet, making sure that you have even edges sticking out all around.  (The ends will be "longer" than the sides....that's fine.)

9.    Bring up the center of each edge and pin it to the pillow....this will keep the sheet from shifting around on you while you work.

10.    Gather the sheet at each corner and pin snugly:

11.    After making sure to pin all four corners, CAREFULLY remove the sheet from the mattress.  Sew along the pin lines until you have created a "pocket" like this:

 12.    After sewing all four corners, turn right side out and try it onto your mattress.  It should fit snugly:

13.    If everything fits well, remove sheet from mattress and turn wrong side out again.  Trim the "pockets" away at the four corners:

 14.    Now turn fitted sheet right side out and place back on mattress.  Your FITTED SHEET is now DONE!

PILLOWCASE DIRECTIONS:


1.    Cut out your 10" x 14" piece of fabric.

2.    HEM along one 14" long edge.  Turn in and HEM AGAIN to create pillowcase edge:

3.    Turn in pillowcase on long edge, making sure right sides of fabric are together.  Your pillowcase should now measure 7"x10".  Pin along raw edges, leaving hemmed end open.  Sew along two raw edges:

4.    Turn right side out.  PILLOWCASE is now DONE!

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

Pretend Play: Doctor "Kit"

Remember the "DOCTOR LAB COAT"?

http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/2010/09/pretend-play-doctor-lab-coat.html

I have a daughter that is fascinated with anything "medical".....could it be the various doctors and nurses in the family??  After I made the doctor coat for her, I made another coat for my nephews to play with.  That opened up "a whole other can of worms"....a doctor needs "stuff" in order to BE a doctor!!

DOCTOR LIST:

Doctor Coat:    Made from a white button down collared shirt from Goodwill (see how here: http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/2010/09/pretend-play-doctor-lab-coat.html )

Scrubs:    I found several sets of scrubs at Goodwill (pictured here in black)

Stethoscope:    this one is from Lakeshore Learning ($8.95)

Various Syringes:    veterinarian supplies from Tractor Supply (from $.29 to $1.50 each)

Ace Bandage:    Dollar Store ($1)

Magnifying Glass:    Dollar Store ($1)

BandAids:    On hand

Wooden "tongue depressors":    On hand - wooden craft sticks

Surgeon Glasses:    safety glasses from Dollar Store ($1)

Latex Gloves:    these can be found in dollar bins at Target/Walmart ($1/pack)

Face Masks:    Dollar Store ($1)

Surgical "cap":    shower cap from Dollar Store ($1/set of 3)

"Medicine":    used medicine bottles that are now EMPTY and CLEAN (FREE)

********DISCLAIMER:  do NOT give a child REAL MEDICINE to play with.....these bottles have NOTHING IN THEM!!!!********

Wooden "tweezers":    wooden bread tongs from Bed Bath & Beyond ($?)

Doctor Kit:    small plastic box from Joann ($6 on sale)

Keys:    old keys (wash in dish soap and dry well)....just for FUN! (FREE)

I then used some pieces of craft felt and sewed small pockets that fit the individual small pieces, like syringes and BandAids, so they wouldn't get lost.  I folded the top of the craft felt over and sewed, creating a sleeve for a belt to be placed.  Now the kids can "wear" the doctor pockets while they perform  "exams" or even "surgery"!  FUN!!

I have tested the "fun factor" on my daughter......it's a HUGE HIT!!

*****

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

18" Doll: Fiona's Doll Adirondack Chair

Ana has posted a DOLL ADIRONDACK CHAIR, made by one of her followers Fiona, and the plan is available for free here:

http://ana-white.com/2010/12/fionas-doll-adirondack-chair.html

Please be sure to visit Ana and thank her and Fiona for such an awesome plan!!!

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

18" Doll: Wooden Folding Drying Rack

SHOPPING LIST: (You may have some of these pieces on-hand as SCRAP)

5/8" square dowel    -    2@ 16.5" long (cross arms)  

5/8" square dowel    -   4@ 9" long 

heavy string/twine    -    6 feet long

#8-32x1-1/2" machine bolt    -    1 (for cross mechanism)

#8-32 machine screw nut    -    1 (for cross mechanism)

tape measure

small hand saw

drill

counter-sink bit

3/16" drill bit

1.25" screw (4)

sand paper (120 grit works well for this)

wood putty to fill holes and knots

Paint or stain to finish your piece (if desired)

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.    Mark your sizes on your wood and cut out your pieces.  (I always mark the wood with sizes AND where it is to be used (leg, side) so that I can move faster when building.

2.    Sand your pieces (on the ends to be joined, at least, if not completely).  You don't want to deal with edges that won't join cleanly and snugly.

3.    You should now have 6 pieces like this:

4.    On the 16.5" legs, mark 7" in from ONE side on both leg pieces.  Then, using a countersink bit, pre-drill holes on-center at the 7" mark.  These will be your crossed "legs".  Mark the side that you measured 7" from....this will be your "bottom" of the legs (pictured here on right side):

5.    Now....using a 3/16" drill bit:

 6.    ...drill into the center of each end (4 drilled holes total) of the 16.5" legs:

 7.    Now mark the center of each 9" piece (4.5").  Pre-drill each center mark using a countersink bit:

 8.    We are going the make the "bottom" arms first, so that it can stand up.  Place your 16.5" legs together so that drilled holes meet but face out OPPOSITE of each other.  Insert your 1.5" machine screw through the drilled hole, and secure the nut to the screw on the other side.  (The pre-drilled countersink bit holes provide an indented place for the screw head and nut to rest.)  You should now have a "hinged X".

9.    Using 1.25" screws, drill through the 9" board "center mark" into the drilled holes on the "bottom" side of your 16.5" legs.

 10.    Now take your 2 remaining 9" pieces and line them up together.  Using a ruler or tape measure, mark (from left to right) the following holes: 1.5", 3", 4.5" (already drilled), 6", 7.5".  Using a countersink bit, drill COMPLETELY through the marks (make sure they are centered on boards) to the other side of your wood.

11.    Next, using 1.25" screws, drill through the 4.5" center mark (9" boards) into the holes you drilled at the ends of the 16.5" legs:

12.    Last step:  Make a knot in one end of the string, and wrap a piece of tape around the other end of the string.  Thread the taped side of the string through the arm holes, starting at the OUTSIDE BOTTOM of one arm, then UP through the outside hole, ACROSS to the opposite arm, DOWN through that hole, OVER to the hole next door, UP through that hole, and then ACROSS to the opposite arm and DOWN through that hole.  TIE OFF in a tight knot.  REPEAT for the other side of the X.

You now have a cute little addition to your doll world!!  Accessorize and ENJOY!!

Straw hat: Hobby Lobby

Metal Tubs: Michaels

Wooden Crate: Michaels

Baby: Target

Apples: folk art from family trip

Clothespins from Michaels:

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

Pretend Play: Wooden Castle (Peg People)

I started with this ready-to-finish wood castle from Michaels, originally $19.99, and used a 40% coupon. Total: $11.99 + tax

This is the UPC # in case you want to try tracking it down....

I wanted to duplicate the "look" of this castle from Melissa and Doug:

http://www.amazon.com/Melissa-Doug-Fold-Wooden-Castle/dp/B001ENH50U/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I8MCIXRNL7WVP&colid=28C0UH3FRVB7H

I think this is LITERALLY the exact SAME castle!!

A little wooden "storage bin" inside the castle:

And here it is painted:

I used Valspar brand paint from Lowes: Polka Pink and Vessa Gray, Glidden Rich Navy (windows) from Home Depot, and then decoupaged pieces of scrap paper onto the floors/walls for "rugs, tile and wallpaper".

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.