18" Doll: Wooden Sewing Machine

I decided that a "sewing machine" HAD TO BE MADE....because my daughter won't leave mine alone!  (She loves this little toy, and actually "pretends to sew".)  I wanted to make it "multi-purpose" by being small enough for her doll to "use" but sturdy enough that she could enjoy playing with it as well.  I wish that she could have one of the sewing machines for "kids", but she is still too young for "power tools"!

SHOPPING LIST: (You may have some of these pieces on-hand as SCRAP)

2x2 -    3" long 

1x3 -    6" long (base)

1x2 -    5.75" long (arm)

1x2 -    1.75" long (arm extension)

1/4" dowel -    (thread spool)

small spool of thread (mine is from a "travel" sewing kit)

small plastic cap (mine is from a cardboard milk carton) - about 1" wide (front knob)

medium plastic cap (mine is from a small vitamin bottle) - about 1.5" wide (side knob)

2.5" nail (I broke mine off of a "pack" of nails for my air nailer)

small metal picture hanger - (sewing machine "foot")

black marker in regular and FINE widths for writing

tape measure

small hand saw

drill

counter-sink bit

3/8" drill bit

wood glue

clamps

1.25" screw (1)

2" screws (4)

Smaller screws for knobs (about 3/4" to 1") (1/knob)

wood putty to fill holes and knots

Paint to finish your piece (white and silver)

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.    Mark your sizes on your wood and cut out your pieces.  (I always mark the wood with sizes AND where it is to be used (leg, side) so that I can move faster when building.

2.    Sand your pieces (on the ends to be joined, at least, if not completely).  You don't want to deal with edges that won't join cleanly and snugly.

3.    Place your 2x2 on the 1x3, centering the 2x2 on the edge of the 1x3, and then flip over and screw through the bottom with 2 - 2" screws.

4.    Take your 1x2x5.75" piece and use wood glue to secure your 1x2x1.75" piece on one end, and clamp until dry.

5.    After 1x2's dry under clamps, remove clamps and pre-drill a hole using your counter sink bit.  Then using 1.25" screws, screw through the bottom of the smaller 1x2 into the larger 1x2:

6.     Place your nail through the picture hanger so that the nail point faces up.  Hammer into the small 1x2, being sure to set off center and slightly to the right (remember that a screw is there):

7.    Place your completed 1x2 "arm" onto the 2x2 "post", and while holding securely, pre-drill 2 holes down through the 1x2 into the 2x2.  Using 2" screws, screw through your pre-drilled holes to secure. (Yes, I know the steps look out of order because some things are already done in the picture....I'm just trying to make it easier for you!):

8.    Once your sewing machine "arm" is secured, you can add your thread dowel.  Using a 3/8" drill bit, make a hole about 2" in from the right front side of your sewing machine (my picture has the sewing machine backwards):

9.    Place your dowel in the hole:

10.    Place your thread onto the dowel, measure, and mark with a pen:

11.    Remove dowel and cut to length you marked.  Add wood glue to hole and around base of dowel and then place dowel back in hole to secure.  (Make sure to wipe up any spilled or excess wood glue....once it dries, you can't paint it!):

12.    Use wood putty to fill all holes, knots and gaps between pieces.  Sand the entire piece well.  Paint your ENTIRE piece with 2 coats of white paint, and allow to dry.

13.    Decorate your knobs as desired:

14.    When the white paint on your sewing machine has dried, place your knob on the front of your sewing machine (about 1.5" down from the top) and then pre-drill through the knob into the wood.  Using a small screw (about 1" long), secure the knob to the 2x2 post:

14.    Also place your larger knob on the side of the the 2x2 post, higher up than the knob on the front, and pre-drill through the knob into the wood.  Using a smaller screw (about 3/4" long), secure the knob to the 2x2 post.

15.    Go over your screw heads with a black marker to make sure they are all "uniform" in look:

16.    Using silver paint (or a silver paint pen), make a "plate" for your "machine foot" to "rest on":

17.    Add your machine markings using a black marker (you can use these or copy from your own machine):

18.    As my daughter pointed out....Don't forget your REVERSE button!

19.    Add your spool of thread to the dowel on top:

AND YOU ARE FINISHED!

Don't forget to add some scraps of fabric to the mix....

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.

18" Doll: Dining Room Hutch

My 18" Doll Dining Room Hutch is finally built (but not finished)!  In my effort to get this plan out to you before Christmas, I have simply built it and not filled holes, sanded, or finished the hutch.  Please excuse the mess!

SHOPPING LIST: (You may have some of these pieces on-hand as SCRAP)

1x6:    2 @ 18" long (for sides)

1x6:    3 @ 12" long (for shelves: bottom shelf, 2nd shelf, 3rd shelf)

1x3:    1 @ 12" long (for 4th shelf)

1x4:    1 @ 14.5" long (for the top)

MDF:  13.5"x17.5" (for the back)

t-square level

tape measure

small hand saw

2" nails (nailing piece together except for back)

1" nails (nailing on the MDF back)

wood putty to fill holes and knots

Paint or stain to finish your piece

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.    Mark your sizes on your wood and cut out your pieces.  (I always mark the wood with sizes AND where it is to be used (leg, side) so that I can move faster when building.

2.    Sand your pieces (on the ends to be joined, at least, if not completely).  You don't want to deal with edges that won't join cleanly and snugly.

3.    Lay your two pieces of 1x6x18" flat and flush next to each other.  Using your shelves as a "thickness guide", mark the following measurements onto the side pieces:  

Bottom shelf:  1" from bottom of piece to bottom of Bottom shelf

2nd Shelf (from bottom): 6.5" from bottom of piece to bottom of 2nd shelf

3rd Shelf: 10" from bottom of piece to bottom of 3rd shelf.

4th Shelf:  14" from the bottom of piece to bottom of 4th shelf

Then place your 4th shelf (1x3) onto each side piece so that it stands perpendicular to the side piece and is flush with the "back" of the side piece....mark where the front of the 1x3 comes to on the side piece (it's obviously not as wide as a 1x6).  Now draw a line using a t-quare or ruler from the bottom outer point of the 1x3 shelf to the top outer point of the 3rd (1x6) shelf.  This line will be a "triangle".  (see picture below.)  Also draw a line from the outer 1x3 point straight up to the top of the side piece.  The excess (pictured below as "scribbled out" in pencil) will now need to be cut away using a small hand saw:

4.    Now with your side pieces lined up again back-to-back, you should have even markings where your shelves will be placed:

5.    First nail on your 2nd Shelf (1x6) into the middle of the piece, forming an "H"- this will help for stability as you go along.  Make sure to line up each shelf with the "top and bottom shelf markings" that you made on the sides:

6.    Next, nail on your 3rd Shelf (1x6):

7.    Now nail on your bottom shelf:

8.    Then nail on your 4th Shelf (1x3):

9.    Stand your piece up.  Lay the top piece on, making sure to center it well.  Nail down through the top into the sides (sorry for the sideways pic):

10.    Finally, nail your MDF back onto the back of the hutch using 1" nails.

11.  Fill all nail holes and knots in wood with wood putty.

12.  Sand piece well.

13.  Finish as desired with paint or stain.

(I have not filled my nail/screw holes or painted this piece yet....in an effort to get the plans out to you so that you may build this in time for Christmas!  Please forgive the lack of "finish"!)

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

(The baking set, chef's coat and hat are from Target: Our Generation)

http://www.target.com/Our-Generation-Baking-Decorating-Accessory/dp/B003L0RX4M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&searchView=grid5&keywords=our%20generation&fromGsearch=true&sr=1-2&qid=1289853255&rh=&searchRank=target104545&id=Our%20Generation%20Baking%20Decorating%20Accessory&node=1038576%7C1287991011&searchSize=30&searchPage=1&searchNodeID=1038576%7C1287991011&searchBinNameList=subjectbin%2Cprice%2Ctarget_com_primary_color-bin%2Ctarget_com_size-bin%2Ctarget_com_brand-bin&frombrowse=0

Baby Doll: Crib

DISCLAIMER: I just want to state the OBVIOUS....this crib is NOT INTENDED, in any way, to be used for the care of a HUMAN child!!!! Please don't put a baby or child into this crib!  It is only intended to be used as a TOY for children to PLAY WITH!!! 

The Baby Doll Crib is finally built, just not "finished"!  In my effort to get this plan out to you before Christmas, I have simply built it and not filled holes, sanded, or finished the crib.  Please excuse the mess!

SHOPPING LIST: (You may have some of these pieces on-hand as SCRAP)

2x2:    4 - 18" long (legs)

1x2:    4 - 24" long (long side rails of crib - top and bottom)

1x2:    4 - 10 5/8" long (ends of crib - top and bottom)

MDF:  2 pieces @ 9"x12" (vertical ends of crib)

MDF:  1 piece @ 12"x24" (bottom of crib)

1x2:    4 - 12" long (screwed under 12"x24" MDF for support)

5/16 dowel:  14 pieces at 8" long (side rails of crib - Home Depot has them in 4 foot lengths - buy 3)

3/8" drill bit

t-square level

tape measure

2" wood screws

countersink bit for the screws

1" nails (toenail on the vertical end pieces of MDF)

wood putty to fill holes and knots

Paint or stain to finish your piece

INSTRUCTIONS:

1.    Mark your sizes on your wood and cut out your pieces.  (I always mark the wood with sizes AND where it is to be used (leg, side) so that I can move faster when building.

2.    Sand your pieces (on the ends to be joined, at least, if not completely).  You don't want to deal with edges that won't join cleanly and snugly.

3.    Using a flat piece of board at one end, line up your 4 pieces of 1x2x24" rails so that they are all flush:

4.     Lay a tape measure on one of the boards, measuring from one end to the other the full 24", and make a small mark every three inches (3", 6", 9", 12", 15", 18", & 21").  These will be the placements of your 7 dowels per side rail (my daughter is helping with her OWN play tools....I wonder WHY this takes me SO LONG???):

 5.    While all of the pieces are lined up flush, use a t-square level to mark lines through your measured spacing marks:

6.    Here they are, all lined up and marked:

7.    Get out your 3/8" drill bit.  Making sure to drill in the CENTER of each mark, drill out a hole for each dowel....SLOWLY AND CAREFULLY, making sure to keep the drill bit VERTICAL to the board so you get straight holes.  (This is the tedious part - you will drill a hole 28 times!  But if you go slowly, your efforts will be worth it!):

8.    Pre-drill one of the 1x2x24" rails with a countersink bit in the top right corner of the rail (making sure the dowel holes are pointed toward you):

9.    Attach the 1x2x12" support (making sure that the support is laying "down flat" when drilling) to the 1x2x24" rail.  Repeat pre-drill on opposite top left corner of the 24" rail, and attach another 12" support (laying "down flat").  You should now have a U-shaped frame that looks like this (dowel holes facing UP):

10.    Now just attach another 24" rail to the other side of the frame, using the pre-drilling step with a countersink bit, and you should have a frame that looks like this (BOTH rails with dowel holes facing UP):

11.    Now lay your 12"x24" piece of MDF onto this frame (the support pieces laying DOWN FLAT help form a little "tray" for the MDF to sit onto).  You may have to sand down any tight edges of MDF to get it to fit:

12.    Now for the 2x2 legs:  Pre-drill through the TOP LEFT of one 2x2 leg, and the TOP RIGHT of a second 2x2 leg (you will repeat this step again for the "other side" of the crib for a total of 2 frames like this).  Screw on a 1x2x24" rail at the top of the legs (dowel holes on rail pointing down from the top of the legs) so that you have a frame that looks like this:

13.    Repeat last step so that you have 2 leg frame pieces that look alike.

14.    Now we join the bottom frame with the 2 leg frames:  the easiest way I found was to turn one leg frame upside-down (legs sticking into the air, 1x2x24" rail FLUSH SIDE out), arrange dowels into holes, then turn the bottom frame upside-down and line dowels up into that bottom 24" rail.  Screw the bottom 24" rail into the 2x2 legs, one at a time, and then turn right side up.  It should look something like this:

15.    Next:  repeat the last step for the other side of the crib, as pictured below:

16.    Now attach last two 1x2x12" supports under the crib, using a countersink bit and screwing them into the 24" rails with 2" wood screws:

17.    You will find the crib will "wobble" A LOT... SO

18.    Using your countersink bit, screw on a piece of 1x2x10 5/8" end piece between the 2x2 legs.  Make sure that the 1x2 is flat (as pictured):

19.    Now place your 9"x12" MDF end pieces inside the crib, flush with the 2x2 legs.  Toenail these pieces into the 2x2 legs and top 1x2x10" piece using 1" nails and a nail gun:

20.    Last: nail the last 2 pieces of 1x2x10 5/8" pieces onto the sides of the crib between the 2x2 legs and level with the top of the bottom end supports:

21.  Fill all nail holes and knots in wood with wood putty.

22.  Sand piece well.

23.  Finish as desired with paint or stain.

(I have not filled my nail/screw holes or painted this piece yet....in an effort to get the plans out to you so that you may build this in time for Christmas!  Please forgive the lack of "finish"!)

Here is a picture of the crib next to the changing table that we previously built:

These two pieces are pre-school kid-sized (my daughter is almost 3, but the size of a 5 year old) 

and they fit her well.  

Here is the crib with the mattress and pillow from my tutorial :

http://piecesforreese.blogspot.com/2010/12/mattress-pillow-sheets-tutorial.html

(The doll measures approximately 13", so this crib can be used for even larger dolls!)

Please feel free to use these plans to build furniture, for sale or for pleasure, but please do not sell the PLANS as your "own".  Please also give credit to me and link back here!  I hope you enjoy them!!

***I am NOT LIABLE for any plans featured here. Please take every precaution and use your own discretion to make sure these toys are safe for children to play with them.